The Jungle by Upton Sinclair (1878-1968) is a standard on high school
summer reading lists; that is, for those high schools that still expect
education to occur beyond the classroom. It was first published in serial form in
1905 for a Kansas City weekly newspaper, Appeal
To Reason. The author’s intention was to highlight the exploitation of immigrant
workers in Chicago’s stockyards. The book’s positive outcome, however, was
directed elsewhere. As Sinclair put it: “I aimed at the public’s heart, and by
accident I hit it in the stomach.” To the public The Jungle was an alarm about food safety, not so much about the
safety of workers. Thus soon after publication, President Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919)
advocated for and Congress passed two major food policies and established a
department which is now called Food and Drug Administration. So what happened
to the workers?
Chicago’s Union Stockyards closed in 1971 (though two
small slaughtering houses still operate in that neighborhood). In our country
slaughtering and meat packing now takes place in the South. Chicken and other
poultry, for example, is processed in Arkansas and North Carolina. Beef and
pork are still packaged in the Midwest, but now in smaller plants in remote
towns.
Ted Genoways in The
Chain: Farm Factory and the Fate of Our Food (Harper Collins, 2014) takes
us to the Hormel Meat factory in Austin, Minnesota. The entire food
industry—from planting corn or raising a calf to lunch at a restaurant or
dinner in the kitchen—is remote to us. Austin is tucked away on IS 90, west of
Rochester and about a dozen miles north of Iowa. Hormel’s infrastructure is
also deliberately remote. The chief executive has a Texas address but, as Genoways
discovers, there is no such place. Some of the workers likewise, though for a different
reason, have phony IDs. Since the Great Depression the Austin plant has
specialized in Spam—the kind that comes in a can. The current recession has put
Spam production into overdrive.
The pace
of work is what Genoways means by The
Chain. In a so-called pilot project
the government now allows some automated plants to run the production line as
fast as possible. “Upping the speed of slaughter…set off a wide-ranging and
sometimes disastrous series of events,” Genoways says. A dirty and perhaps
infected carcass more likely makes its way down the line. Workers suffer more
injuries, including a nerve-damaging infection that is only detected later. Our
relatively inexpensive meat “comes at a high cost to its workers,” Genoways
concludes.
What can
be done? The workers in Austin and in other nearby plants are nobly represented
by United Food and Commercial Workers. In 1985 they staged perhaps the “most
notorious and rancorous” job action in our country’s history. That story plus and
an insider’s account of meat inspection as well as more from Genoways and other
journalists and, late this year, a return visit to Chicago’s stockyards… all of
that will appear in a subsequent Working
Catholic columns.
Droel edits
INITIATIVES (PO Box 291102, Chicago, IL 60629), a printed newsletter about
faith and work.